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Eagle Lake Woodworking - Question and Answer
This section of Eagle Lake is a collection of woodworking-related questions and answers - submitted by you, the viewer! You can submit a new question for this section by using the Q&A submission form, or join the discussion by commenting on the existing Q&A entries.
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The goal is to have a flush mount drawer front cut from the same board that matches the surrounding wood. With a few simple cuts on the tablesaw, you can get a nice drawer opening with a drawer face that show continuous and matching grain, here's how. [More]
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If you are familar with my method for mortising on the Router Table, you know that I use a modified tenon jig to control the lateral movement of the workpiece. The tenon jig has a runner that sites in the miter track and moves right and left. The travel of the tenon is limited by two stops in the miter track.

The miter track on my current router table is equipped with a t-track type miter slot, whereas my old router table had a plain miter track. This article discusses my approach to making the rulered stops for both style miter tracks. [More]
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The list below shows some of my favorite speciality bits. I created this list of specialty bits from those that I have found useful and feel may be worth your consideration. [More]
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I put together a list of four must-have bits for any woodworker that uses a router. This list works nicely for the beginning woodworker as an alternative to buying a bit set. It may be a shock at first to spend $20 to $50 or more on a decent single bit, but when you get a lot of use (and longevity) out of that bit, the price becomes justified.

I believe the router table is one of the most useful and versatile tools in the shop. There's no other machine that can do so many different operations. The wide variety and vast selection of router bits available today makes it even easier to do more with your router. [More]
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There are quite a few benefits to enclosing the lower portion of the router table. After I enclosed the lower portion on the router table, I wondered to myself why I hadn't done it years before.

The best benefit is dust collection while mortising (or using another bit that directs dust down).
The other benefit that I never considered was the fact that the router is much quieter. [More]
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I made the zero clearance insert for my table saw from MDF. The Craftsman saw I have has a funny shallow lip around the inside of hole. It was really kind of a pain because the material left on the ouside of the insert was rather thin. The holes were put into the insert to improve air flow to the lower dust chamber on the saw. The blade has a plastic enclosure beneath the table the completely surrounds the blade. I sealed this enclosure nearly air tight using foam. I needed to cut the holes in the zero clearance insert in order for the dust collection to have the necessary air flow. [More]
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The tenon jig I use on the Router Table for mortising is from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10185&filter=tenon%20jig   Using a tenon jig to control the lateral movement of the workpiece works out really well for mortising, sliding dovetails, and teno... [More]
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My Dust Collection unit is the 2HP model from Harbor Freight, and I have to say, it's been worth every penny. I got it on sale for $159 (reg $229), and I think it's hard to beat it's performance for the price.

I have it connected with 4 inch thin-wall PVC sewer and drain pipe and it works really well. I have a blast gate at every machine, and can only have one open at a time. [More]
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The quartersawn white panel material is a unique sort of thing. It's about 3/16 of inch thick. I bought about 14 sheets (4ft x 5ft) of it from a guy who had is custom made for a wainscot he intended to install in his house. It's sort of like a hardboard core with a paper-ish veneer on one side (for equilibrium) and QSWO veneer on the other. When I bought it, I really didn't know what the heck I'd use it for, but I did know that I loved the look of QSWO. Since then, I've come up with some interesting applications for it. It works well for the panel portion of frame and panel style furniture. I'll be sorry when I run out of it. [More]
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My complaint about the kit from Schlabaugh and Sons is that I don't really care for their t-track or bolts. The bolts supplied with the kit are square headed, and they don't slide real well in the t-track. I much prefer aluminum t-track from Rockler. The laser engraved table is awesome and dead-on accurate. You should take a look at the plan and see if you can get the hardware elsewhere for less. I think the only part worth buying from Schlabaugh and Sons is the laser engraved table. [More]
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I have developed the world's first foot-activated motorized router lift. By motorizing the raise and lower action of the router, it enables operations never before possible with a standard router table. [More]
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I use Google Sketchup for the 3D renderings in the videos. When I first tried Sketchup, I was arrogant and dove right in without any instruction. In short order, I realized this program doesn't operate the same as other 'drawing' programs. Then I found the tutorial videos on how to do some simple operations in Sketchup. The videos really got me going in the right direction. If you decide to give Sketchup a try, be sure to check those videos out - they will save you a lot of frustration. [More]
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