Arts and Crafts Round Table - Stickley #603 (round tabouret)

by John W. Nixon on November 23 2008 11:47

Currently rated 3.7 by 9 people

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There are 2 files in this project available for download

Project Description

Here's my interpretation of Gustav Stickley's No. 603 tabouret. This little round table works great in almost any decor.

The construction of the table looks deceptively simple, but it has it's fair share of challenges. You have to be accurate and precise in the execution of the joinery to make the through tenons and interlocking cross members fit perfect.

There is a multi-part video series for this project (Part 1 was released 12/7/08, the rest of the videos will be coming soon). In the video, I make two of these tables side by side - each with very different methods. I compare and contrast how to build an authentic version of this table versus an "imposter" table. I think you'll enjoy seeing the choices in materials and construction that goes into each distinct method.

Update 12-12-2008 - I added a PDF to the file downloads that has all the dimensions for this table. The measured drawings are also in the picture gallery.

Video Series

Released	Description
12/07/2008	Part 1 - This video introduces the project and details the construction of the round top. Cutting circles on the router table using the motorized router lift is shown. Basic veneering techniques are also show.
12/13/2008	Part 2 - This video details the construction of the legs. I show two different methods for constructing a leg that show quartersawn white oak grain on all four sides.
12/14/2008	Part 3 - This video details two different mortise and tenon joints for the legs. The authentic table features legs that have a traditional through-mortise and tenon joint connecting the lower cross-members to the legs. The imposter table has a fake through tenon and uses loose tenon joinery to connect the lower cross-members to the legs.
12/18/2008	Part 4 - This video details the construction of the lower crossmembers. I'll show you how to make tenons on the MLCS horizontal router table, and use pattern routing to form identical curves in all the pieces. The interlocking crossmembers fit together with a precise dado.
12/26/2008	Part 5 - This video details the construction of the upper crossmembers. The authentic table has a dovetail joint that connects the upper cross member to the legs, while the imposter table uses a simple stub tenon and open mortise. The interlocking crossmembers fit together with a precise half-lap joint.
12/27/2008	Part 6 - This video details the assembly of both tables. You will see how loose tenon joinery can simplify the assembly of the imposter table. The benefits of a successful dry fit are stressed. For a lifetime of service, the mortise and tenon joints are pinned using dowels.
1/11/2008	Part 7 - This video details how to apply the stain and finish to the tables using simple techniques and off-the-shelf products. My simple finish schedule is easy to follow and gives great results.

Tags: gallery, video

Project | Fine Woodworking

6/13/2010 7:07:04 PM

Nilton Jorge Gomes de Figueiredo

Posted by:

Dear John.

I like videos a lot. I am fan of the work that you do.
A hug of a friend from Brazil.

Nilton Figueiredo - Patos - Paraiba - Brasil

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3/9/2009 6:27:19 PM

Jane Church

Great post! I’ve been very interested in crafts for a long time. I didn’t know that arts & crafts round table.

1/28/2009 7:59:08 AM

Ron Sites

Great videos john, I always enjoy your work.

Ron

1/7/2009 9:10:10 AM

John W. Nixon

roberta wrote:you didn't wet to raise the grain and then sand......as I was taught.....
This is one of the main reasons I use oil-based stain.  You only need to raise the grain after using water-based products that are applied directly to unsealed wood.

roberta wrote:
and brush vs. sponge in application...... since you're wiping it off...
does it make that much difference.....
With an oil based stain, when you go back over it with a loaded foam brush, you can re-activate the stain (pick some of it backup) and elinimate lap marks.  To put it another way, the foam brush tends to blend stain, thus extending the working time.

roberta wrote:
Do you let the stain dry before applying the tung oil?
Yes, the stain should thoroughly dry out before top coating (24 hrs is good).  Since the tung oil finish I used is mostly linseed oil and varnish, it blends nicely with the oil based stain.

roberta wrote:
Does it affect the way a poly coat adheres?  Is it necessary?
I like the tung oil finish for shade that it gives the wood.  It doesn't build up into a film and leaves the wood a bit more natural looking.  Wipe on poly bonds fine to the tung oil finish that I use.

1/7/2009 8:59:40 AM

roberta

very nice video on staining....... and top coating...
just wondering..... you didn't wet to raise the grain and then sand......
as I was taught.....

and brush vs. sponge in application...... since you're wiping it off...
does it make that much difference.....  Maybe it does because you don't want puddles of stain on the table..  hmmmmmmmmm...... but I never puddle my stain.
The time allotment of 10 min's or so might make it difficult.  I will have to try it on my next project.

Do you let the stain dry before applying the tongue oil?  and what exactly is tongue (spelling) oil?   Does it affect the way a poly coat adheres?  Is it necessary?

Thanks John,...... I really should look up staining on the web, I guess, instead of bothering you.  Just replying to the video.  Very nice job.

1/7/2009 2:39:46 AM

Ernesto

Hola John, viendo los videos se nota que es muy facil y divertido trabajar con madera. Te felicito que hayas tenido la genial idea de publicar tus trabajos. Soy un aficionado a la carpintería y una de las cosas que aún no he logrado con precisión es el empalme de cola de milano. ¿La única forma es con la plantilla que utilizas? Si tienes algún otro método te agradeceré lo puedas publicar.

Un abrazo y muchas felcidades en este año que empieza.

1/4/2009 8:50:30 AM

bingo patterns

HELLO.really its very interesting.i saw these 6 descriptions to how to make this round table.so its very good art.my cousin also doing this art and craft so she had also more type of this round tables and so on..so i have gain more tips to how to make another round table. so i will also do efforts to do all this so i would like to say thanks to u.

12/17/2008 5:28:55 AM

Reply to comment from jerry mayfield who wrote:
I have seen all six now,and as usual they are very good. I think the presentation gets a little smoo...

Thanks Jerry, I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment here. There's one more part to this series that covers the finishing (and maybe a wrap-up video). Stay tuned, the next part should be out soon.

12/17/2008 4:47:33 AM

jerry mayfield

I have seen all six now,and as usual they are very good. I think the presentation gets a little smoother with each video.

Regards

Jerry

12/8/2008 9:03:49 AM

Reply to comment from Dillon Boltwood who wrote:
When you glue up the panel in part 1 you veneer it before you glue it leaving no room to level the b...

Hi Dillon,  I considered that approach, but I really loath seaming veneer.  I can never seem to get a perfect seam.  By veneering the boards first, I could get a perfect glue joint between the boards.

There is one other reason I did it the way I did - the seam in the veneer lines up with the glue joint in the core boards.  To put it another way, when you look at the edge of the table and note the end grain, the joint in the red oak boards matches the seam in the veneer and helps with the illusion of solid QSWO.

John

12/8/2008 6:57:17 AM

Dillon Boltwood

When you glue up the panel in part 1 you veneer it before you glue it leaving no room to level the board. Would it work to glue up the panel, level it, and then veneer it afterward?

12/3/2008 6:26:46 AM

Reply to comment from Sal G. who wrote:
I noticed in Part 3, that you are flipping the workpiece to avoid tearout. Yikes! This invites more ...

Hi Sal. I read your comment this morning and thought, why the heck didn't I think of that? I figured I must have done it because I needed to make that shallow little mortise for the fake through tenon on the other side anyway. And then IT DAWNED ON ME - I remembered that my 3/8 inch mortising bit wasn't long enough to make it all the way through the leg. I guess the upside is that the mortising setup remained accurate despite having to flip the leg, and that the technique could be used when making a through-tenon in stock where your bit isn't tall enough. Thanks for your feedback!

12/3/2008 6:23:35 AM

Sal G.

I noticed in Part 3, that you are flipping the workpiece to avoid tearout. Yikes! This invites more chance for error and misalignment, no matter how careful you may be. Wouldn't it be easy enough to put a backer scrap on the exit face to prevent tear-out? You could attach it with carpet tape or, in your case, where you have a fence with a rail, simply lock a block pressed against the cut region with a clamp? Have you tried either of these methods?

Sal.

11/28/2008 10:27:02 AM

Reply to comment from Ken McGinnis who wrote:
John,
I just viewed your initial video of the Stickley designed round table-so now I'm ready f...

Hi Ken,

Good to see a fellow Lumberjock here - thanks for stopping by. Thanks for the nice comment as well!

These tables are fun to build. As you'll see in the upcoming videos, the challenge (I think) is getting the mortise and tenon joint perfect. I'll be showing a traditional through M&T joint as well as a loose tenon joint (with a false through tenon).

I hope video #2 will be out this weekend (12/14/08).

11/27/2008 9:42:30 AM

Ken McGinnis

John,
I just viewed your initial video of the Stickley designed round table-so now I'm ready for the second video! Your first video sure makes it look simple, enough so that I'm inspired to try and do the same. I'll just wait for the concluding videos in the series however. Keep up the good work,both wood working and production of the videos. I found your link through the Lumberjocks.com site of which I'm a member also-[woodbutcher]-I've enjoyed the pics' of some of your other works there in the past. Your entrance into video production seems to be as succinct concise and complete as your other builds on Lumberjocks. I truly enjoyed it.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis

11/26/2008 2:17:30 PM

Thanks everybody - I appreciate you watching the video and commenting here. I will hopefully be releasing a new part of this video each week.

11/25/2008 5:47:17 AM

Steven Holden

Hi John
Just watched the first part of your Arts and Craft round table video, it was excellent(as usual) I'm really looking forward to part two.
keep up your grest work. you are an inspiration.

Steven H
Manchester, UK